A Few Delicious Moments in New York
Saturday, September 19, 2015
Summer lingers in the city. The weather's wonderful, and I’ve been wandering the streets, stopping in to meet friends. Here are a few of the most delicious things I’ve eaten over the past few days.
Riding the crosstown bus the other day, I got a text from Lisa and Hiro; they had just sat down at the bar at Le Bernardin. I looked up; we were crossing Seventh Avenue, and I hopped off and went to say hello.
And ended up staying for a few delicious morsels, like that fluke in ponzu-chimichurri sauce above.
I really didn't meant to stay, but when these crisp little caviar sandwiches, with gruyere and smoked salmon arrived, how could I possibly leave?
Then there was this pounded yellowfin tuna, with jamon Iberico and sea beans.
I got up to go, but seduced by the joyous beauty of hamachi with rice krispy in kochujang sake vinaigrette sat down again. It was just so much fun! (And such a pleasure to eat.)
Finally, I really had to leave. I stayed for one last bite - lobster tail in lemongrass consomme with a refreshing little spring roll on the side - and walked out the door, feeling as I always do, that a great restaurant lifts your spirits and leaves you feeling both refreshed and fortunate.
That night I had the immense pleasure of stopping in at Food 52 for breakfast as dinner. It's a lovely space that feels more like a cozy cabin than a working office, filled with people who seem to revel in their work. We had a delightfully eccentric evening meal: matzo brei, corn pudding, peach cobbler, a summer squash casserole and fat slices of bacon - and even better conversation. You'll be able to hear all about it soon, on their podcast.
The next day, walking downtown after a radio interview I ran into Mario Batali, carrying a dozen eggs. He was off to the Four Seasons to celebrate his birthday (it's today). I was on my way to meet friends at Il Buco Alimentari, but along the way I ran into yet another friend, and pulled her along with me. I love it when this city feels like a village.
Lunch was impressive. My favorite moment? These figs, topped with lardo, marinated kombu and maracona almonds and sparked with lime zest. Spectacular - and unusual - combination.
I’ve always admired the octopus
And I loved this, miso-marinated hamachi topped with trout roe
Still, try though I may, I can never resist their version of spaghetti caccio e pepe:
Lunch was over, but not the day. Last night Bruce Cost cooked these gorgeous prawns. Fished from a tank, they were so lively they tried to jump from the pot. Is anything better than a perfectly steamed prawn?
For a final flavor he served these pig feet stewed in rock sugar with lots of vinegar and ginger. It's a dish you eat slowly, savoring every delicious morsel, thinking how lucky you are to be alive.
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